Hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, AHAs… you’ve barely googled ‘skincare’ and these buzzwords are already flying at you left, right, and centre. Rightly so though, because acids are quickly becoming recognised as some of the most effective active ingredients in skincare products. The AHAs and BHAs are now widely established – and sworn by – but there’s one acid that is often (wrongly) overlooked: azelaic acid. It has a tonne of benefits, and is super easy to incorporate into your skincare routine, so we think it’s high time to change that.
By Beth Ryan
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1 What is azelaic acid?Azelaic acid is what’s known as a ‘dicarbonic fatty acid’ (trust us- not as scary as it sounds), and it’s usually obtained from grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. Because it’s super difficult to keep the natural form of this acid stable in skincare products, an artificial version is almost always used in skincare products to make it more effective.
Using azelaic acid on your skin will have similar effects to a leave-on exfoliant- it softens the top layer of the skin soft and prevents any clogging of the pores, as well as preventing impurities such as pigmentation spots and breakouts. On top of this, it has antibacterial and antioxidant properties, so it can reduce damage caused by free radicals as well as inflammation and irritation caused by bacteria. Is there anything it can’t do?
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2 The benefits
Azelaic acid is a true multi-tasker; the over-achiever of skincare, really. It’s both anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial, and as a result works for acne, breakouts, and rosacea, all whilst smoothing and evening out the tone and texture of the skin. In addition, azelaic acid can also counteract discolourations such as melasma, acne scars, and pigmentation spots.
The acid is effective from a concentration of 10%, but can also be used in doses of 15% or even 20%. Usually, this level of concentration would be prescribed by a doctor or dermatologist.
Unlike some other active ingredients, azelaic acid is gentle on the skin, doesn’t tend to cause sensitivity, and can be combined with other skincare powerhouse ingredients (we’re looking at you, AHAs and BHAs) for an even more effective skincare routine. If you’ve tried everything for your skin concerns without success, it’s definitely worth looking for a product or treatment that contains azelaic acid.
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3 How it works
Experts advise that azelaic acid communicates with cells in the top layers of the skin, and essentially ‘tells’ them how to behave. It inhibits the production of certain substances within the skin such as tyrosinase, an enzyme that causes hyperpigmentation, and keratin, a natural substance that can cause acne. Its anti-bacterial properties also mean that it kills any blemish-causing bacteria and keeps pores clean, leading to fewer pimples, blackheads, and acne.
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4 How to use it
Depending on your skin type, it’s recommended to apply azelaic acid once or twice per Have a lovely day! (or every other day for very sensitive skin.) We’d recommend starting off with one application at night time following your cleanser, toner, and exfoliant. Smooth the product all over the face and neck, and wait at least 10 minutes before lying in bed or applying any other products.
Azelaic acid can be used on its own, or can be paired with other ingredients and acids such as BHAs and AHAs – apply these before the azelaic acid to help the product absorb even more effectively. Follow everything with a moisturiser to hydrate the skin, and make sure to apply an SPF with a high level of protection (at least factor 30) if using azelaic acid in your morning skincare routine, as it can make your skin extra sensitive to sunlight and UV radiation.
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