Let’s face it, sometimes the journey to getting the hair of your dreams can be a real headache. You know what you want, but when it comes to actually explaining it to your stylist? That’s when things can get a bit confusing. And the dreaded salon lingo only makes matters worse. From base colours to toning treatments, hands up if you’ve ever left a salon appointment feeling more confused than when you walked in? To put a stop to the madness we sat down with stylist to the stars James Galvin from Daniel Galvin salons, to help us demystify all that confusing salon jargon, and ensure you’re armed with all the right knowledge next time you book in. Consider this the only glossary you’ll ever need on the road to perfect hair. Read on to find out more…
By Rebecca Hoffnung
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1 'We'll work with your base colour in mind'
You’ll hear it often if you regularly get your hair dyed, but incase you’re still unsure: ‘a base colour is your natural hair colour, generally speaking the colourist would be referring to the root regrowth if the client has previously had colour,’ explains James.
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2 'Shall we go blunt or choppy?'
Blunt and choppy style aren't one in the same. ‘A blunt haircut means to cut the hair in a way that keeps the hair looking at its thickest. A choppy haircut can be achieved by using a number of techniques to create texture/movement and to enhance a slightly dishevelled or unkempt look.’
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3 'A graduation cut will create a fuller shape'
It turns out graduation and layers aren't the same thing. ‘A layered haircut involves the removal of weight to create volume and enhance movement. A graduation haircut is a cut where there is a gradual build-up of weight, starting at a shorter point leading to a longer point to create a fuller shape.’ Take note ladies.
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4 'We'll need to strip your hair to achieve this shade'
If you’ve ever gone from one extreme hair colour to the next, colour correction and stripping should already be a part of your salon vocab, but it’s a handy one to know if you’re considering a major colour update. ‘Colour corrections are ALWAYS a work in progress,’ explains James; ‘depending on what needs correcting, the colourist will advise what is best for the client in both the short-term and the long-term.’ So how does it work? ‘Colour stripping is also a work in progress, depending on how many times the client has applied an all over dark colour to their hair. We would always recommend and start by using ‘Louise Galvin colour remover’ as it is gentle on the hair and generally leaves you with an even result.’ It’s important to know that a drastic colour change usually cant happen overnight: ‘the client should come back after one week as this gives the hair time to oxidise, the process would then be repeated depending on the result. The colourist would then do a mild white wash with shampoo to lift out more warmth before deciding the next stage. Finally the hair would then be dyed to the desired colour.’
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5 'A glossing treatment is a great quick fix'
Usually applied on wet hair after it has been shampooed, glossing treatments are a great way to breath vitality and shine back into dull, over-processed hair. ‘Depending on whether the client would like a clear gloss for shine or a coloured gloss the product would then be applied before conditioning’ explains James. ‘It’s applied all over the hair and lathers up like a shampoo, after leaving on the hair for a minimum of 5 minutes it’s then rinsed thoroughly before conditioning.’
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6 'This cut will frame your face beautifully'
From face shape to bone structure, if you want your haircut to flatter your face, James explains that consultation is key when it comes to creating a face-framing haircut. ‘Features such as nose and jawline should all be taken into account before making a decision. All techniques can suit all face shapes however some cuts will enhance features that do not want to be enhanced, e.g. a full round face should not have a jawline bob or a full fringe.’
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7 'Shall we add a bit of texture into the cut?'
‘Products can enhance and they can create a texturizing haircut,’ explains James, ‘but there are haircutting texturizing techniques that will help to create texture such as razors, thinning scissors, pointing into, slicing and chipping into. And again, a correct understanding of the hair type in the consultation will ensure you use the right texturizing technique. Avoid using thinning scissors and razors on longer, curly textures and drier textured hair.’
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8 'We'll finish with a toner at the backwash'
‘A toner is a colour which deposits tone only. It is used with the lowest developer to push the tone and depth back into the hair which may have been lost due to sun exposure, wear and tear, or if a client feels their hair is either too warm/ashy/light or faded,’ explains James. Applied to wet hair, it’s often used after colour or in between appointments to keep your shade looking fresh.