Foils and highlights: what’s the difference?

 It’s a question we get asked A LOT! And though the seasoned salon goers out there will know the answer immediately, for first timers, understanding why some colour menus say foils, and others highlights, can be confusing.  Newsflash: there is no difference between the two.  In order to create that multi tonal effect that comes with highlights, your colourist uses foils to section off parts of the hair, leaving out a certain number of strands from the foils to keep it looking natural. So whether you ask for one or the other when you get to the salon, the results should be the same – fresh, evenly distributed highlights covering the entire head. Need a little more help with the lingo? By the time you’ve read our guide we’ll have you talking like a pro in no time…

By Rebecca Hoffnung

• 1 What should I ask for?

  When booking in for highlights, first decide if you want the whole shebang, or would prefer to keep your colour a little more subtle. If you tend to mostly wear your hair down, then a half head should suffice. Kinder on both your wallet and your busy schedule (unsurprisingly, a half head takes a lot less time!), this method involves colouring just the crown of the head, leaving the lower, less visible layers of hair untouched. If you’re worried about it looking unfinished, don’t be – a good stylist will always ensure highlights frame the face and fade evenly into your natural hair, so it shouldn’t look too blocky or contrasting.
• 2 A full head packs more of a punch than a half head

  Alternatively, if you regularly wear your hair up and want your colour to pack more of a punch, book in for a full head of highlights. Just what it says on the box, a full head of foils covers the entire head, and takes substantially longer – so be sure to set aside at least a few hours depending on the length of your hair. It’s also worth noting that prices are often based on hair length, so if you have super long hair, get saving, as this treatment can be quite expensive depending on the salon and the level of stylist you book in with.
• 3 Are foils used for balayage?

  Still not sure which style to go for? If you want a bolder, more obvious hair colour update then it’s highlights all the way, but if you’re after a more natural-looking grown out look, you might want to consider a balayage treatment. Though don’t be fooled – foils can also be used in a number of other hair dying techniques, including this dip dyed ombre look, but in the salon world this wouldn’t be considered a ‘full head of foils’. In this instance, instead of foils being placed directly under the root of the hair to separate the different tones of dye, they are simply placed midway down the length of your hair to seal in the colour while it sets.
• 4 Are you prepared for the upkeep?

  Always take your lifestyle into account when choosing your hair colour. Are you a regular salon goer, or do you struggle to find the time or money to keep your hair looking fresh? If you know you won’t be going back for touch ups every couple of months, a balayage treatment may be a more manageable treatment for you. The upkeep for a full head of highlights is actually about the same as a half head – but if you hate roots and want your colour looking shiny and new, we’d advise you book in for a touch up every couple of months.
• 5 Bring examples to get the best result

  If you’re a colour rookie, then it’s always a good idea to book in for a consultation in advance to discuss what styles will be right for you. If you’re not big on upkeep and want to get the best bang for your buck, they should be able to tailor a look that works for both your lifestyle and your budget. And why not bring along some examples with you? This is always a great help for your colourist, and will ensure you get as close to your dream shade as possible.